Solder Components, Printed Circuits and Connectors Easily and Reliably

Difficulty: Moderate
Cost: $1-$50

WARNING: This work refers to electrical soldering only.

Learning the correct technique means you can ensure trouble free soldered electrical joints which will be reliable over a long time, and progress to make cheap, easy repairs to your electrical equipment if they develop simple circuit joint faults.

  1. Make sure it's clean. Printed Circuit Boards (PCBs) may need washing – use a mild soap or detergent, but rinse thoroughly and blot on a paper towel, allowing the PCB to dry completely.
  2. Clean component leads by lightly scraping with a blade or use emery or wet and dry paper, used dry. Flux helps to clean the joint and may help if sparingly applied to a reworked joint.
  3. Ensure the join is mechanically stable. Solder is not really a glue; it provides electrical continuity for reliable circuitry. If components move during soldering, the joint may be unreliable or fail completely.
  4. Use a suitable-size soldering iron with a clean bit. Using too small a bit for larger solder joints is inefficient and may heat the joint unevenly. This may cause the 'solder' to set in different strata/layers and prove to be an electrically poor joint – known as a 'dry joint'. Conversely, using too large a bit is unwieldy and may overheat components which may fail completely.
  5. Check the tip temperature. You can do this by touching the tip with the end of the solder, which should melt immediately forming a thin film, tinning the end of the tip. This helps to conduct heat to the work evenly. If the tip is not up to working temperature, leave it a little longer to come up to temperature.
  6. Heat the joint – component leads and PCB pads – for a brief time (<5 seconds).
  7. Apply solder to the joint – ideally from the opposite side to the iron tip. Once the joint reaches working temperature the solder will melt and flow.
  8. Remove the solder and then the iron. If you remove the iron first the solder may stick to the work – simply apply the iron back and as allow the solder to melt off the work.
  9. Feeding just the right amount of solder at the right temperature is a skill that you can soon learn. If you apply too much, the excess can be removed using a de-solder pump or braid.

The same factors apply to plumbing soldering – making a soldered joint for a water pipe – but modern push fit and compression fittings may prove easier to use for a one-off repair.

A good solder joint will be smooth and shiny, and have ideally a 'volcano' shape – technically, a concave meniscus.

Like most things - it gets easier with practice.
Required Tools:
Soldering iron: 15–25 watts for PCB work and soldering leads to cables.
Solder and a soldering iron stand/iron sponge cleaner.
Tip cleaner.
If you plan to do a lot of work, you should consider buying a temperature-controlled solder station, which will provide more consistent heat output to the tip.
Caution:
Basic first aid treatment for burns – cool the burn under cool/cold water for at least 5 mins, up to 15 mins if possible.
If a burn is very small and not painful, it will soon heal, no need for topical creams.
If a burn is larger than a small coin, is more than skin deep, or you have any doubts at all, seek medical aid.
Quick Tips:
Allow the soldering iron to heat up fully. Ensure the items to be soldered are clean and dry.
Avoid pulling or blowing on the joint to minimize the risk of any stresses causing a dry joint.
Leave soldered joints to cool for at least 1 minute before touching. Remember the soldering iron's stand gets hot too!
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Comments

Thanks for the tips! These are really helpful. My soldering technique is terribly awful, so this will definitely help.

It's good to find specific info like this from a practiced person! I like the safety tips, esp.!

Hi Patrick & Marilisa

many thanks for your comments. Hope you find this useful.
regards
rik