How To Make a Buttonhole Using a Zigzag Stitch

If you are learning how to sew or if you have a machine that does not have a buttonhole attachment,  you can still make nice buttonholes just using your zigzag stitch. Before making your buttonholes, consider the following:

• Place buttonholes exactly on the grain and use ones which are exactly same size if used in a row.
• Use good scissors with sharp points.
• To measure your button, use a ruler or yardstick.
• You need to mark your fabric with a colored pencil; if the fabric is very light or dark use a contrasting pencil.
• Have one of the actual buttons needed for the correct length.
• Interface any edge that is to have buttonholes, the edge will always have extra wear.
• Reinforce materials that unravel easily, or material that stretches, by fusing lightweight interfacing on the wrong side in the buttonhole area.

It is best to always make a test buttonhole with the fabric and interfacing to see how it will handle. This is also a good time to find the length of the buttonhole.  Usually the width of the button plus the diameter will give you the length.  For example: if the button is 7/8" in diameter and 1/8" thick then the length would be 1 inch.  The type of button you use will depend upon the type of fabric selected; adjust the length of buttonhole for buttons with unusual shapes.

Have your garment prepared for buttonhole placement.  Using your contrasting pencil draw your buttonhole length.  When you have finished marking your buttonhole, take the thread and trace the buttonhole through all three layers of cloth.  Make sure you place the buttonhole exactly on the grain of the fabric.

Set your zigzag stitch to a satin-like stitch. You want the threads to be very close together and the stitch to be even in width.  Before you begin the zigzag stitch, you need to bar tack the end of the buttonhole several times, then using the zigzag stitch follow the buttonhole marking along one side, turn your garment,  bar tack the end, then zigzag along the remaining buttonhole side, end with several bar tacks to secure the threads.  The lips of the buttonhole should not be more than 1/8" apart.

Using the very pointed end of the scissors cut the buttonhole open, being very careful not to cut into thread of the zigzag stitches. It is best to go over the buttonhole again and then to proceed to the next buttonhole and repeat the process.

If you lack confidence in making buttonholes with the zigzag stitch, then it would be best to make a few practice runs using the same material before you make the finished buttonhole.