

Getting a new rabbit can be a great and exciting edition to your family. Rabbits are perfectly happy living indoors or outdoors. They are, however, a little more comfortable when they are outside. This is because they deal with cold temperatures better than they do with warm temperatures. It is important if your rabbit is being kept outside to provide them with a safe, comfortable and stable hutch to live in. There are two distinctly different ways to approach building your hutch.
First you want to make sure you have your plans drawn out to the closest detail. This will assure that you have all of your appropriate supplies for building so you are not caught in a spot right in the middle. Draw it out in any way you know how, making sure to write down all of your measurements carefully. Always take into account how big your rabbit is, or how big they will become before deciding how big the hutch should be. Your hutch design does not have to be fancy. While you might think that your rabbit may like two or three different areas or compartments, this is not true. Rabbits are happy with one solitary area to live in. While they are in their cage, they are interested in eating and sleeping. Play time will occur when you take them out to socialize them.
Once you’ve built your hutch, HowToDoThings recommends this eBook for in-depth advice on rabbit care and training:
How To Train & Care for Your Rabbit!
There are two options to consider when building your hutch:
- An All-Wooden Enclosure. This type of cage is the most common and popular. It is not, however, the best choice for your rabbit. We will cover why this is after the way to design it and build it is discussed. It is best to use sturdy dependable plywood when building your all-wooden enclosure, not particle board. This cage will be home to your rabbit for a long time so it is important to use good supplies.
- This type of cage is generally designed with two different sections. One section will be completely enclosed, all except for a small opening for your rabbit to enter and exit into the larger portion of the cage. This section can have a wooden floor but it is recommended to have a wire bottom. This is because your rabbit will generally use any bedding as litter and they do not know any better than to go to the bathroom whether they are in their "bedroom" or not.
- An All-Wire Cage (Wooden Frame). This cage is the easier one to make. Go to any rabbit show, pet store, or farm supply store, and buy a regular indoor wire rabbit cage. Although it is meant for indoors, it is perfectly suitable for outdoors as well. What you will do is take good quality 2 x 4's and build a frame around your wire cage, with legs at least 3 feet, and a strong safe plywood roof. It is best to put the roof on an angle sloping down towards the back in order for rain or snow to run off it. Shingling it or draping and stapling plastic to it is optional, but helpful in preserving the wood.
The larger section should be approximately twice the size of the enclosed area. This section will have a wire bottom and a door in the front. The door should be wire as well. This will allow your rabbit to have circulation throughout the pen. Circulation is important for your rabbit to remain healthy. Make sure that your hutch has a sturdy roof, especially if you are in an area where there might be snowfall. Also make sure that the cage is set high enough off of the ground to allow for circulation, at least 3 feet. One last option is to put a solid door on the front of your "bedroom" area; this will make it easier to catch your rabbit if he is playing hard to get.
The option of dropping pans for your hutch is just that; it is an option. You can either build a wooden pan that could slide in and out of it, or simply allow the droppings to fall to the ground. Cleaning this up once a week is sufficient for sanitary issues, but you may consider doing it more often with a dropping pan, because it is closer to your rabbit's enclosure than the ground.
The second option is the better option for your rabbit. It is likely that with the wooden enclosure, your rabbit will urinate in the corners of the cage. The wood will soak it up and the ammonia will gather. This is not healthy for your rabbit. It will take a long time for this to occur, so if you do choose the wooden cage, your rabbit will not be ill all the time; it is just something to consider.
Building a rabbit cage does not have to be hard. With a good plan and knowledge of what you are hoping to accomplish, it will be a breeze!
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Comments
Wood is impossible to clean with conventional cleaners that are capable of removing dangerous virus and bacteria spores. It can make your rabbit sick. Wood also is easy to chew. Rabbits are heavy chewers... painted wood can kill a rabbit if they accidentally ingest it. The best cages are made entirely of wire. They can be mounted on cinder blocks and a roof area should be built over it. A wooden cage should be thrown in the dumpster and never used again if a rabbit died in it.
You can make a wire cage at home by cutting out wire. Best would be 1 inch by 1 inch 12 gauge galvanized wire. Hog rings can be used with a crimping tool to put the cut pieces together. Feed stores will carry the wire and the tools needed to make these cages. The tools needed are wire cutters, and the crimping tool. Wood should never be used where the rabbit can chew or defecate.


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